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Table 1 Suggested dyes used on samples of each color from the Persian and Indian velvets

From: Analysis of natural dyes and metal threads used in 16th -18th century Persian/Safavid and Indian/Mughal velvets by HPLC-PDA and SEM-EDS to investigate the system to differentiate velvets of these two cultures

  

Persian velvets

Indian velvets

Color

Type of thread

Suggested dyes

Suggested dyes

Single dye used on the sample

Dye mixed to the dye in the left column

Single dye used on the sample

Dye mixed to the dye in the left column

Red

Pile

Cochineal (7/7)

Cochineal only (6/7)

Lac (6/7)

 
  

Lac (1/7)

Cochineal (1/7)

 

Other types of threads

  

Madder (1/1)

 

Yellow

Pile

Yellow larkspur (10/12)

Yellow larkspur only (8/10)

Turmeric (4/5)

Turmeric only (2/4)

  

Luteolin containing dye (2/10)

 

Unknown yellow dye B (1/4)

 

Unknown yellow dye A (2/12)

  

Yellow larkspur (1/4)

   

Unidentified (1/5)

 

Other types of threads

Yellow larkspur (2/5)

 

Turmeric (1/1)

(Soluble redwood?) (1/1)

 

Unknown yellow dye A (3/5)

   

Yellow-2

Core yarn, metal thread

Yellow larkspur (3/5)

 

Unidentified (2/2)

 
 

Unknown yellow dye A (1/5)

Turmeric (1/5)

  
 

Unidentified (1/5)

   

Green and Bluish Green

Pile

Yellow larkspur + Indigo dye (6/8)

 

Yellow larkspur + Indigo dye (7/9)

 
 

Unknown yellow dye A + indigo dye (2/8)

 

Turmeric + indigo dye (2/9)

 

Other types of threads

Yellow larkspur + Indigo dye (2/2)

 

Turmeric + indigo dye (1/1)

 

Pink and Orange

Pile

Safflower (11/13)

Safflower only (3/13)

Safflower (6/6)

Safflower only (2/6)

  

Yellow larkspur (3/13)

 

Yellow larkspur (1/6)

  

Unknown yellow dye A (4/13)

 

Turmeric (2/6)

  

Turmeric + unknown yellow dye A (1/13)

 

Unknown yellow dye C + yellow larkspur (1/6)

 

(Soluble redwood?) (1/13)

   
 

Unidentified (1/13)

   

Other types of threads

  

Madder + turmeric + (soluble redwood?) (1/1)

 

PinK-2

Core yarn, metal thread

Safflower + turmeric (2/2)

 

Safflower + turmeric (2/2)

 

Brown and Reddish Brown

Pile

Soluble redwood (3/3)

Soluble redwood only (2/3)

  
  

Safflower (1/3)

  

Purple

Pile

Safflower + indigo dye + yellow larkspur (1/3)

   
 

Safflower + indigo dye + unknown yellow dye A (1/3)

   
 

Safflower + indigo dye (1/3)

   

Black

Pile

Tannin dye (4/4)

Tannin dye only (3/4)

Tannin dye (1/1)

 
  

Soluble redwood (1/4)

  

Blue

Pile

Indigo dye (5/5)

   
  1. The dyes shown in Italic are the main dyes used in each color. The numbers in parentheses are (the number of samples in which the dye was used/the total number of samples of the color). Indian velvet of acc. no. 27.115 showed two different weaving techniques within the same velvet based on our study: the center panel and one corner showed characteristics of an Indian weaving technique and the border showed the Persian weaving technique.