Table 4 Results summary of the PLM fiber identification study

Spun silk (Testfabrics reference)

13

Fibers are thin, smooth, uniform in diameter, and transparent. Occasional dents, constrictions and swellings occur in some. Fibers are colorless, suggesting they are undyed

Silk

Bleached cotton (Testfabrics reference)

27

Fibers are thin hollow tubes that twist along the length. Some changes twist direction (S or Z) observed along fiber length. Fibers tend to be flat and elongated. Fibers are transparent and colorless; undyed

Cotton

Wool (Testfabrics reference)

24

Fibers are slightly variable in width, and show overlapping scales characteristic of wool. Fibers are colorless suggesting they are undyed

Wool

Red netting thread, p.r. shoe

15

Fibers are thin, smooth, uniform in diameter, and transparent. Occasional dents, constrictions and swellings occur in some. The fibers are consistent with silk but appear to be have been bent due to the “memory” of twisting of the threads in the red netting. Fibers are dyed a uniform red color

Silk (dyed red)

Red thread holding netting to shoe, p.r. shoe

15

Fibers are thin, smooth, uniform in diameter, and transparent. Occasional dents, constrictions and swellings occur in some filaments. Fibers are dyed a uniform red color

Silk (dyed red)

Red thread holding netting to shoe, p.l. shoe

13

Fibers are thin, smooth, quite uniform in diameter and transparent. Occasional dents, constrictions and swellings occur in some filaments. Fibers are dyed a uniform red color

Silk (dyed red)

Decorative faille shoe fabric, from weft, p.l. shoe

12

Individual fibers are thin, smooth, quite uniform in diameter, and transparent. Occasional dents, constrictions and swellings occur in some filaments. Fibers are dyed a uniform red color

Silk (dyed red)

Sequin thread, p.r. shoe

17

Fibers are thin hollow tubes, with twists along fiber length which may change direction (S or Z) at various intervals. Fibers tend to be flat and elongated. Fibers are transparent and a light brown color suggesting the thread may have been dyed but is now altered and/or faded

Cotton

Woven bow support thread, p.r. shoe

22

Fibers are thin hollow tubes, with twists along fiber length which may change direction (S or Z) at various intervals. Fibers tend to be flat and elongated. Fibers are transparent and colorless; undyed

Cotton

Structural shoe fabric, p.r. shoe

23

Fibers are thin hollow tubes, with twists along fiber length which may change direction (S or Z) at various intervals. Fibers tend to be flat and elongated. Fibers are transparent and colorless; undyed. Globules of nearly opaque material on surface of fibers may be a residue of adhesive and/or stiffener

Cotton, possibly mercerized

Sequin thread from toe, p.l. shoe

18

Thin hollow tube, twists along fiber length which may change direction (S or Z) at various intervals; fibers tend to be flat and elongated. Fibers are transparent and light brown, suggesting the thread may have been dyed but is now altered and/or faded

Cotton

Orange felt on central sole area, p.r. shoe

23 (wool, orange dyed)

Wool can be variable in width but shows characteristics scales, which allow its fibers to interlock with other fibers; dyed uniform bright orange. Other fibers are undyed. Cotton fibers show characteristics twists. Fibers other than orange dyed wool may be “shoddy” (inferior, reuse scrap fiber), and/or dust picked up from the floor during shoe usage

Wool (orange dyed), other undyed fibers

Orange felt, near edge, p.l. shoe

30 (wool, orange dyed)

Wool can be variable in width but shows characteristics scales, which allow its fibers to be distinguished from other materials; dyed uniform bright orange. Other fibers are undyed. Fibers other than orange dyed wool may be “shoddy” (inferior, reuse scrap fiber), and/or foreign fiber adhered from the floor during shoe usage

Wool (orange dyed); undyed wool, other fibers

Sole near arch, p.r. shoe

7

Fine brown short fibers

Leather