Multi-instrumental approach with archival research to study the Norwich textile industry in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries: the example of a Norwich pattern book dated c. 1790–1793

Alcántara-García, Jocelyn; Nix, Michael

doi:10.1186/s40494-018-0242-x

Heritage Science

Table 1 Experimental results of samples taken from pages 1, 27 and 32 of Norwich worsted pattern book (c. 1790–1793), accession number 65 × 695.3. Winterthur Museum, Garden and Library

From: Multi-instrumental approach with archival research to study the Norwich textile industry in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries: the example of a Norwich pattern book dated c. 1790–1793

Colour	Sample number*	Page	Dye components^a	Possible	XRF results^b
Paper	N/A	1, 27, 32	N/A	N/A	Fe, Co, K, Ca, As
Pink	1*	1	car, pur	Cochineal, madder	Sn, Cu, Ca, Zn, S, Fe, K
	15*	1	car, dcII	Cochineal	Sn, Ca, Fe
	443	32	car	Cochineal	Sn, Ca
Red	3*	1	ali’, car, pur, ppur	Madder, cochineal	Sn, Ca, Zn, Cu, S, Fe
	10*	1	ali, fka, car, pur	Madder, cochineal	Ca, Sn
	367	27	car, fka	Cochineal	Cu
	445	32	car, dcII	Cochineal	Sn, Ca, Fe, Ti
	11*	1	lut’, api’, lut, api	Weld	Fe, Sn
	370	27	lut, api	Weld	Fe, Co, K, Ca, As
Yellow	372	27	lut, api	Weld	Fe, Co, K, Ca, As
	436	32	lut, api	Weld	Fe ≈ Cu
	447	32	mor, rut	Old fustic	Ca
Orange	7*	1	ea, fis, sul, lut’, api’	Tannin source, young fustic, weld	Ca, Fe
	440	32	fis, sul, lut’, api’, quer	Young fustic, weld, quercitron	Ca, Fe
	4*	1	orc, in	Orchil, indigo plant	Ca ≈ Fe, S, Cu, Zn
Purple	5*	1	orc	Orchil	Sn, Zn, Cu, K, Ni, S, Fe ≈ Ca
	14*	1	orc	Orchil	Zn
	16*	1	orc	Orchil	Ca, Zn
	374	27	No dye components detected
	378	27	orc	Orchil	Zn, Ca
	435	32	orchil, mor, in	Orchil, indigo plant, old fustic	Fe, Ca, Zn
	437	32	orc, in	Orchil, indigo plant	Fe, Cu, Ca, Zn
	439	32	No dye components detected		Fe, Ca, Zn, Cu
	444	32	orc	Orchil	Fe, Ca, Zn, Cu
	446	32	orc, in	Orchil, indigo plant	Zn, Fe
Brown	9*	1	quer, in	Quercitron oak, indigo plant	Fe, Co, K, Ca, As
	376	27	orc, ea	Tannin source, orchil	Cu
	438	32	ea	Tannin source	Fe, Cu
Blue	8*	1	in	Indigo plant	Fe, Cu, As
	13^*	1	in	Indigo plant	Fe
	371	27	in, orc	Indigo plant, orchil	Ca, Zn, Cu,
	379	27	in	Indigo plant	Cu, Zn, Fe, Ca
	437	32	in	Indigo plant	Cu, Fe
	443	32	No dye components detected		Fe, Ca, Cu
	446	32	in, orc	Indigo plant, orchil	Fe, Ca, Cu
	447	32	in	Indigo plant	Fe, Ca, Zn
Light Blue	436	32	in, ir	Indigo
	440	32	in, ir	Indigo	Cu
	2^*	1	ea, quer, in	Quercitron oak, tannin source, indigo plant	Cu
	6^*	1	in	Indigo plant, no yellow components detected	Fe, Ca, Cu, S
	12^*	1	quer, in	Quercitron oak, tannin source, indigo plant	Fe
	367	27	ea, mor	Tannin source, old fustic	Fe, Ca, Cu, S
Green	368	27	ea, mor’	Tannin source, old fustic	Fe, Cu
	370	27	ea, mor, in	Tannin source, old fustic, indigo plant	Fe, Cu
	372	27	No dye components detected		Ca, Fe, Cu
	377	27	quer, in, mor’	Quercitron oak, indigo plant, old fustic	Fe
	442	32	in	Indigo plant	Fe ≈ Cu

Winterthur Museum, Garden and Library
*An asterisk next to the sample number indicates textile is glazed; italics denote a weft thread sample
^aIn-indigotin; ir-indirubin; quer-quercetin; rut-rutin; lut-luteolin; api-apigenin; mor-morin; fis-fisetin; sul-sulfuretin; ali-alizarin; pur-purpurin; ppur-pseudopurpurin; fka-flavokermesic acid; car-carminic acid; dcII-unidentified anthraquinoid compound present in coccid dyes [15]; orc-orcein; ea-ellagic acid, (’ indicates the corresponding glucoside)
^bAll samples showed Fe, Co, K, Ca and As. Major element X-ray lines are listed

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