Table 1 Description of the ikats under investigation and summary of the results obtained by dye analysis. The dates reported are those attribute based on stylistic interpretation, expect for the ikats in which synthetic dyes were found (terminus post quem production dates are reported in bold for these textiles). For HPLC-DAD analysis, the values between paranthesis are percentages resulting from the intergration of the chromatographic areas (254 nm) of all peaks (dye molecules) attributed to the molecular components of the dye source considered. All dye molecules identified for each dye source are discussed in detail in the corresponding sections. The results reported in italic were obtained by additional HPLC-DAD-MS analysis
Image | Description | Color | FORS | HPLC–DAD*/HPLC–DAD-MS |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| S2004.66** Wall hanging 1850–1875 Uzbekistan, probably Samarkand 6 panels, warp-faced plain weave; silk, cotton H × W: 211 × 175 cm | Blue | Indigo | Indigo (70), pagoda tree flower buds (30) |
Green | Indigo and unidentified yellow |  | ||
Purple | Indigo and insect red | Â | ||
Red | Insect red | Cochineal (80), larkspur (15), lac (2), madder (1), indigo (1) | ||
Pink | Insect red | Â | ||
Yellow | Unidentified | Larkspur (85), pagoda tree flower bud (10), madder (4), indigo (1) | ||
| S2004.68** Wall hanging Mid-nineteenth century Uzbekistan, probably Samarkand 4 panels, warp-faced plain weave; silk, cotton H × W: 229 × 102 cm | Blue | Indigo | indigo (75), madder (5), quercetin (20) |
Green | Indigo and unidentified yellow | larkspur (85), indigo (12), madder (3) | ||
Purple | Indigo and insect red | Â | ||
Red | Insect red | Cochineal (90), madder (7), tannins (1), lac (2) | ||
Yellow | Unidentified | larkspur (95), madder (4), indigo (1) | ||
| S2004.72*** Wall hanging 1850–1875 Uzbekistan, probably Bukhara 2 panels, warp-faced plain weave; silk, cotton H × W: 130 × 72 cm | Blue | Indigo | Indigo (35), larkspur (55), cochineal (3), madder (7) |
Green | Indigo and unidentified yellow | Indigo (65), possibly synthetics (35)/indigo, larkspur, traces of madder | ||
Purple | Indigo and insect red | Cochineal (75), tannins (5), madder (15), indigo (5) | ||
Red | Insect red | Cochineal (70), tannins (5), madder (22), indigo (3) | ||
Yellow | Unidentified | Larkspur (80), madder (5), cochineal (5), tannins (10) | ||
| S2004.75*** Wall hanging Mid-nineteenth century Central Asia 4 panels, warp-faced plain weave; silk, cotton H × W (overall): 123 × 114 cm | Blue (dark) | Indigo | Indigo (35), larkspur (60), cochineal (2), madder (2) |
Blue (light) | Indigo | Indigo (50), cochineal (25), tannins (25) | ||
Green | Indigo and unidentified yellow | Indigo (13), larkspur (85), madder (2) | ||
Purple | Indigo and insect red | Cochineal (80), tannins (2), madder (8), larkspur (5), indigo (5) | ||
Red | Insect red | Cochineal (95), tannin (2), madder (3) | ||
Yellow | Unidentified | Larkspur (85), cochineal (10), madder (3), indigo (2) | ||
| S2004.76*** Wall hanging Mid-nineteenth century; Uzbekistan, Bukhara 6 panels, warp-faced plain weave; silk warps, cotton wefts H × W (overall): 175 × 159 cm | Blue (dark) | Indigo | Indigo (45), larkspur (45), cochineal (5), madder (5) |
Blue (light) | Indigo | Indigo (65), cochineal (25), madder (10) | ||
Green | Indigo and unidentified yellow | Indigo (15), cochineal (25), madder (10), larkspur (50) | ||
Purple | Indigo and insect red |  | ||
Red | Insect red | Cochineal (80), madder (10), tannins (10) | ||
Yellow | Unidentified | larkspur (90), madder (8), indigo (2) | ||
| S2004.78 Complete loom length textile Nineteenth century Central Asia 1 panel, silk velvet H × W: 678 × 41 cm | Blue | Indigo | Indigo (45), cochineal (25), tannins (35) |
Green | Indigo and unidentified yellow | Indigo (15), larkspur (75), cochineal (10) | ||
Purple | Indigo and unidentified red | cochineal (90), tannins (5), indigo (5) | ||
Red | Unidentified | Cochineal (95), tannins (3), madder (2) | ||
Yellow | Unidentified | Larkspur (95), cochineal (2), probably synthetic yellow (3)/larkspur, pagoda tree flower buds, cochineal, alizarin | ||
Orange | Unidentified | probably synthetic orange (95), indigo (5)/cochineal, grape vine leaves (Vitis vinifera) | ||
| S2004.79 Section of loom length; After 1877 Central Asia 1 panel; warp-faced plain weave; silk warps, cotton wefts H × W: 198 × 28 cm | Blue | Indigo | Indigo (90), synthetic (10)/indigo, synthetic orange (probably an azo dye similar to orange IV) |
Green | Synthetic | Synthetic (100)/larkspur, malachite green, traces of cochineal | ||
Purple | Indigo and unidentified red | Cochineal (98), indigo (2) | ||
Red | Insect red | Cochineal (95), probably synthetic (5)/cochineal, tannins | ||
Yellow | Unidentified | Â | ||
| S2004.80** Wall hanging 1850–1875 Uzbekistan, Samarkand or Ferghana Valley 5.5 panels, warp-faced plain weave; silk warps, cotton wefts H × W: 221 × 150 cm | Blue | Indigo | Indigo (100) |
Blue-green | Indigo and unidentified yellow | indigo (22), larkspur (75), madder (3) | ||
Purple | Indigo and insect red | cochineal (90), tannins (7), indigo (3) | ||
Red | Insect red | Cochineal (96), tannins (2), madder (1), indigo (1)/cochineal, tannins | ||
Yellow | Unidentified | larkspur (85), pagoda tree flower buds (10), indigo (5)/larkspur, pagoda tree flower buds, cochineal | ||
| S2004.81** Wall hanging After 1887 Central Asia, Ferghana Valley 6 panels, warp-faced plain weave; silk warps, cotton wefts H × W: 203 × 171 cm | Blue | Indigo | indigo (50), cochineal (25), tannins (25) |
Green | Indigo and unidentified yellow | Larkspur (90), indigo (3), madder (2), synthetic (5)/larkspur, indigo, rhodamine B | ||
Red | Insect red | cochineal (90), tannins (5), synthetic (5)/cochineal, tannins, rhodamine B | ||
| S2004.82** Wall hanging Probably after 1888 Central Asia 3 panels, warp-faced plain weave; silk warps, cotton wefts H × W: 178 × 110.9 cm | Blue-green | Synthetic | Malachite green, synthetic blue (probably patent blue V) and synthetic yellow (probably alizarin yellow) |
Purple | Mixture of natural and synthetic (?) | Â | ||
Red | Insect red | Cochineal (55), lac (20), madder (12), tannins (3), malachite green (10) | ||
Yellow | Unidentified | Â | ||
| S2004.83** Wall hanging 1800–1850 Uzbekistan, Bukhara 6 panels in center, warp-faced plain weave; silk warps, cotton wefts H × W: 246 × 211 cm | Blue | Indigo |  |
Green | Indigo and unidentified yellow | Cochineal (15), larkspur (75), madder (5), indigo (5) | ||
Purple | Indigo and unidentified red | Cochineal (15), tannins (20), madder (5), indigo (60) | ||
Red | Insect red | Cochineal (65), madder (20), tannins (12), probably synthetic (3)/cochineal, madder, tannins | ||
Yellow | Unidentified | larkspur (95), madder (3), indigo (2) | ||
| S2004.84*** Wall hanging Probably after 1876 Uzbekistan, Bukhara 3.5 panels, warp-faced plain weave; silk warps, cotton wefts H × W: 231 × 1150 cm | Blue | Indigo and synthetic (?) |  |
Purple/green | Indigo,  insect red and unidentified | Cochineal (5), indigo (5), larkspur (85), probably synthetic (5)/cochineal, indigo, larkspur, not fully identified compounds (possibly orange I, orange II and other azo dyes) | ||
Red | Insect red | Cochineal (15), synthetic (85)/cochineal, fuchsine | ||
Yellow | Unidentified | Larkspur (94), cochineal (2), indigo (2), synthetic (2) | ||
| S2004.85 Wall hanging After 1877 Iran Single loom width, warp-faced plain weave; silk warps, cotton wefts H × W: 180 × 109 cm | Blue (dark) | Indigo | Indigo (60), madder (35), synthetic (5) |
Blue (light) | Synthetic | Â | ||
Green | Synthetic | Larkspur (90), synthetic green (10)/larkspur, malachite green, cochineal, madder | ||
Red | Unidentified | cochineal (68), tannins (30), madder (2)/cochineal, tannins, traces of malachite green | ||
Yellow | Unidentified | Â | ||
| S2004.88*** Wall hanging 1850–1875 Uzbekistan, possibly Samarkand 5 panels, warp-faced plain weave; silk warps, cotton wefts H × W: 204 × 140 cm | Red (dark) | Insect red | Cochineal (85), lac (2), madder (3), larkspur (10) |
Red (light) | Insect red | Â | ||
Yellow 1 | Unidentified | Larkspur (98), madder (2) | ||
| S2004.89 Section of loom length After 1877 Central Asia 1 panel, warp-faced plain weave; silk warps, cotton wefts H × W: 234 × 33 cm | Blue (dark) | Synthetic |  |
Blue (light) | Synthetic | Â | ||
Blue weft | Indigo | Indigo (100) | ||
Purple | Synthetic | Larkspur (15), synthetic violet (85)/larkspur, methyl violet | ||
Green | Synthetic | larkspur (40), indigo (10), synthetic green (50)/larkspur, malachite green, indigo | ||
Red (light) | Synthetic | Â | ||
Red (dark) | Synthetic | Cochineal (30), synthetic (70—probably methyl violet) | ||
Yellow | Unidentified | Larkspur (97), indigo (3) | ||
| S2004.90*** Wall hanging ca. 1900 Central Asia 4 panels, warp-faced plain weave; silk warps, cotton wefts H × W: 203 × 142 cm | Blue | Indigo |  |
Green | Indigo and synthetic |  | ||
Purple | Indigo and unidentified | Indigo (35), cochineal (40), tannins (25) | ||
Red | Unidentified | Cochineal (85), tannins (12), madder (3) | ||
Yellow | Unidentified | Larkspur (85), pagoda tree flower buds (8), cochineal (5), madder (2) | ||
| S2004.91** Wall hanging 1800–1850 Uzbekistan, Bukhara 3 panels, warp-faced plain weave; silk warps, cotton wefts H × W: 169 × 86 cm | Blue 1 | Indigo | Indigo (35), cochineal (30), tannins (15), madder (20) |
Green 1 | Indigo and unidentified |  | ||
Purple 1 | Indigo and unidentified |  | ||
Red 1 | Insect red | Cochineal (70), madder (30) | ||
Yellow 1 | Unidentified | Larkspur (70), cochineal (10), madder (20) | ||
| S2004.92*** 1850–1875 Wall hanging Central Asia, Ferghana Valley 5.5 panels, warp-faced plain weave; silk warps, cotton wefts H × W: 211 × 144 cm | Green | Indigo and unidentified | Indigo (60), larkspur (25), pagoda tree flower buds (10), madder (5) |
Red | Insect red | Cochineal (85), madder (2), tannins (13) | ||
Yellow | Unidentified | Larkspur (55), madder (15), pagoda tree flower buds (30) | ||
| S2004.95*** Woman's robe (munisak) 1850–1875 Central Asia Silk velvet H × W: 165 × 122 cm | Blue | Indigo | Indigo (60), cochineal (20), larkspur (20) |
Green | Indigo and unidentified | Larkspur (85), indigo (8), cochineal (6), madder (1) | ||
Purple | Indigo and unidentified |  | ||
Purple | Indigo and insect red |  | ||
Red | Unidentified | Cochineal (80), tannins (17), madder (1), indigo (2) | ||
Red | Unidentified | Â | ||
Yellow | Unidentified | Larkspur (98), madder (1), indigo (1) | ||
| S2004.96*** Woman's robe (munisak) 1850–1875 Central Asia Silk velvet H × W: 132 × 160 cm | Blue | Indigo | Indigo (65), probably synthetic (35)/indigo, traces of larkspur and cochineal |
Green | Indigo and unidentified | Indigo (12) larkspur (85), madder (3) | ||
Purple | Indigo and insect red |  | ||
Red | Insect red | Cochineal (85), tannins (13), madder (2)/cochineal, larkspur, tannins | ||
Yellow | Unidentified | Larkspur (100) | ||
| S2005.13** Woman's robe (munisak); late nineteenth century Central Asia; warp-faced plain weave; silk warps, cotton wefts H × W: 135 × 165 cm | Blue | Indigo |  |
Green | Indigo and unidentified |  | ||
Purple | Indigo and unidentified | Cochineal (38), madder (55), tannins (2), indigo (5) | ||
Red | Unidentified | Â | ||
Yellow | Unidentified | Larkspur (72), madder (25), indigo (3) | ||
| S2005.17** Woman's robe (munisak); nineteenth century Central Asia; warp-faced plain weave; silk warps, cotton wefts H × W: 129.5 × 161 cm | Blue | Indigo | Indigo (100) |
Green | Indigo and unidentified | Larkspur (95), indigo (4), madder (1) | ||
Purple (dark) | Indigo and unidentified | cochineal (90), tannins (6), indigo (4) | ||
Purple (reddish) | Indigo and insect red |  | ||
Red | Insect red | Â | ||
Yellow | Unidentified | Â | ||
Brown | Â | Cochineal (50), tannins (3), larkspur (45), madder (1), indigo (1) | ||
| S2006.20 Wall hanging 1840–1875 Uzbekistan, probably Samarkand 2 full panels and 2 half panels center; cut panels in borders; warp-faced plain weave; silk warps, cotton wefts H × W: 206.4 × 148 cm | Blue (border) | Indigo | Indigo (100) |
Blue (center) | Indigo | Â | ||
Green (border) | Indigo and unidentified |  | ||
Green (center) | Indigo and unidentified |  | ||
Purple | Indigo and insect red |  | ||
Red (border) | Insect red | Cochineal (67), lac (13), madder (20) | ||
Red (center) | Insect red | cochineal (67), tannins (7), lac (25) | ||
Yellow (border) | Unidentified | larkspur (100) | ||
Yellow (center) | Unidentified | Â | ||
| S2006.21*** Wall hanging Mid-nineteenth century Uzbekistan, Bukhara or Samarkand; 6 panels, warp-faced plain weave; silk warps, cotton wefts H × W: 226.1 × 168.3 cm | Blue | Indigo | Indigo (80), madder (20) |
Green | Indigo and unidentified | Larkspur (95), indigo (4), madder (1) | ||
Purple | Indigo and unidentified |  | ||
Red (light) | Insect red | Â | ||
Red (dark) | Insect red | Cochineal (70), madder (10), lac (3), tannins (12), indigo (2) | ||
Yellow | Unidentified | Â | ||
| 2007.30** Wall hanging After 1892 Uzbekistan, probably Bukhara 3.5 panels, warp-faced plain weave; silk warps, cotton wefts; silk velvet H × W: 180.3 × 116.8 cm | Green | Synthetic | Larkspur, malachite green, synthetic blue (probably patent blue V) and synthetic yellow (probably alizarin yellow) |
Purple | Synthetic (?) | Larkspur, malachite green, synthetic blue (probably patent blue V), fuchsine, rhodamine B/rhodamine 6G | ||
Red | Synthetic (?) | fuchsine (80), rhodamine B-rhodamine 6G (20) | ||
Yellow | Unidentified | larkspur (75), rhodamine B-rhodamine 6G (25) | ||
| 2007.35** Wall hanging After 1887 Uzbekistan 4 panels, warp-faced plain weave; silk warps, cotton wefts H × W: 201.3 × 144.8 cm | Blue | Indigo and unidentified | Indigo (20), cochineal (10), probably synthetic (70)/indigo, cochineal, pagoda tree flower buds, rhodamine B |
Green | Indigo and unidentified |  | ||
Purple | Indigo and unidentified | Cochineal (55), indigo (45)/indigo, cochineal, pagoda tree flower buds, rhodamine B | ||
Red | Insect red | Cochineal (95), madder (3), indigo (2) | ||
Yellow | Unidentified | Larkspur (100)/cochineal, pagoda tree flower buds |
