Dyes and biological sources in nineteenth to twentieth century ethnographic textiles from Transylvania, Romania

Petroviciu, Irina; Teodorescu, Iulia; Albu, Florin; Virgolici, Marian; Nagoda, Eugenia; Medvedovici, Andrei

doi:10.1186/s40494-019-0255-0

Heritage Science

Table 3 Information about the objects, samples and the results obtained by dye analysis

From: Dyes and biological sources in nineteenth to twentieth century ethnographic textiles from Transylvania, Romania

No.	Object	Sample code	Colour	Fibre	Sample location	Dyes detected	Result
1.	Belt 3551 P (ASTRA)	3551_P1	Blue	Hemp	Bottom	ind, inr	Indigoid dye
		3551_P2	Green	Silk	Tassel decoration	qu, kpf, indigo carmine	Berries from Rhamnus sp. and indigo carmine
		3551_P3	Blue	Silk	Tassel decoration	indigo carmine	Indigo carmine
		3551_P4	Yellow	Silk	Tassel decoration	lu, 3-O-methylqu, ap, qu	Sawwort
2.	Belt 555P (ASTRA)	555_P1	Green	Silk	Tassel decoration	lu, ap, chry	Weld
		555_P2	Yellow–orange	Silk	Tassel decoration	srw, em, rht, qu	Emodin based dye and redwood type
		555_P3	Blue	Hemp	Interior	ind, inr	Indigoid dye
3.	Belt 554P (ASTRA)	554_P1	Blue	Hemp	Interior	ind, inr	Indigoid dye
		554_P2	Green	Silk	Tassel decoration	lu, ge, ap, 3-O-methylqu, chry, dios	Dyer’s broom and sawwort
		554_P3	Blue	Silk	Tassel decoration	indigo carmine	Indigo carmine
		554_P4	Light red	Silk	Tassel decoration	ca, dcII, ka, fk	Carminic acid based insect (possible Dactylopius coccus)
		554_P5	Yellow	Silk	Tassel decoration	fi, sul	Young fustic
4.	Shirt 27P Bran (ASTRA)	27_P1	Brown	Silk		ea	Tannin source
		27_P2	Dark brown	Silk	Shoulder decoration	ea	Tannin source
		27_P3	Violet	Silk	Shoulder decoration	ca, dcII, ka, fk, ea	Carminic acid based insect (possible Porphyrophora hamelii) and a tannin source
5.	Shirt 165P Rasinari (ASTRA)	165_ P2	Brown	Silk	Back, bottom	ea	Tannin source
		165_ P3	Violet	Silk	Back, bottom	ca, dcII, ka, fk, ea	Carminic acid based insect (possible Porphyrophora hamelii) and a tannin source
		165_ P4	Light brown	Silk	Tassel	ea	Tannin source
6.	Shirt 44P Rasinari (ASTRA)	44_P1	Brown	Silk	Neck decoration	ea	Tannin source
		44_P2			Shoulder decoration	ca, dcII, ka, fk, ea	Carminic acid based insect (possible Porphyrophora hamelii) and a tannin source
		44_P3	Blue	Wool	Neck decoration	ind, inr	Indigoid dye
		44_P5	Light green	Wool	Shoulder decoration	lu	Luteolin based dye
		44_P6	Red	Wool	Neck decoration	ca, dcII, ka, fk	Carminic acid based insect (possible Dactylopius coccus)
		44_P8	Yellow	Silk	Sleeve decoration	lu, ap, chry	Weld (Reseda luteola L.)
7.	Shirt 20P (ASTRA)	20_P1	Pink	Silk	Neck decoration	ca, dcII, ka, fk, ea	Carminic acid based insect (possible Porphyrophora hamelii) and a tannin source
		20_P2	Light pink	Silk	Neck decoration	ca, ea	Carminic acid based insect and a tannin source
		20_P3	Black	Silk	Shoulder decoration	Prussian blue^a, ca	Prussian blue and carminic acid based insect
		20_P4	Blue–green	Silk	Shoulder decoration	ind, lu	Indigoid dye and a luteolin based dye
		20_P5	Blue	Silk	Neck decoration	ind	Indigoid dye
		20_P6	Brown	Wool	Neck decoration	–	Natural dyed wool
		20_P7	Ochre yellow	Silk	Neck decoration	lu, ge, ap, 3-O-methylqu chry, dios	Dyer’s broom and sawwort

Major dyes (dyes identified by both UV-Vis and MS detectors) are underlined
^aPrussian blue was identified by FTIR/ATR (signal at 2074 cm⁻¹) and confirmed by the presence of Fe in XRF

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