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Table 3 Information about the objects, samples and the results obtained by dye analysis

From: Dyes and biological sources in nineteenth to twentieth century ethnographic textiles from Transylvania, Romania

No. Object Sample code Colour Fibre Sample location Dyes detected Result
1. Belt
3551 P
(ASTRA)
3551_P1 Blue Hemp Bottom ind, inr Indigoid dye
3551_P2 Green Silk Tassel decoration qu, kpf, indigo carmine Berries from Rhamnus sp. and indigo carmine
3551_P3 Blue Silk Tassel decoration indigo carmine Indigo carmine
3551_P4 Yellow Silk Tassel decoration lu, 3-O-methylqu, ap, qu Sawwort
2. Belt
555P
(ASTRA)
555_P1 Green Silk Tassel decoration lu, ap, chry Weld
555_P2 Yellow–orange Silk Tassel decoration srw, em, rht, qu Emodin based dye and redwood type
555_P3 Blue Hemp Interior ind, inr Indigoid dye
3. Belt
554P
(ASTRA)
554_P1 Blue Hemp Interior ind, inr Indigoid dye
554_P2 Green Silk Tassel decoration lu, ge, ap, 3-O-methylqu, chry, dios Dyer’s broom and sawwort
554_P3 Blue Silk Tassel decoration indigo carmine Indigo carmine
554_P4 Light red Silk Tassel decoration ca, dcII, ka, fk Carminic acid based insect (possible Dactylopius coccus)
554_P5 Yellow Silk Tassel decoration fi, sul Young fustic
4. Shirt
27P Bran
(ASTRA)
27_P1 Brown Silk   ea Tannin source
27_P2 Dark brown Silk Shoulder decoration ea Tannin source
27_P3 Violet Silk Shoulder decoration ca, dcII, ka, fk, ea Carminic acid based insect (possible Porphyrophora hamelii) and a tannin source
5. Shirt
165P Rasinari
(ASTRA)
165_ P2 Brown Silk Back, bottom ea Tannin source
165_ P3 Violet Silk Back, bottom ca, dcII, ka, fk, ea Carminic acid based insect (possible Porphyrophora hamelii) and a tannin source
165_ P4 Light brown Silk Tassel ea Tannin source
6. Shirt
44P Rasinari
(ASTRA)
44_P1 Brown Silk Neck decoration ea Tannin source
44_P2    Shoulder decoration ca, dcII, ka, fk, ea Carminic acid based insect (possible Porphyrophora hamelii) and a tannin source
44_P3 Blue Wool Neck decoration ind, inr Indigoid dye
44_P5 Light green Wool Shoulder decoration lu Luteolin based dye
44_P6 Red Wool Neck decoration ca, dcII, ka, fk Carminic acid based insect (possible Dactylopius coccus)
44_P8 Yellow Silk Sleeve decoration lu, ap, chry Weld (Reseda luteola L.)
7. Shirt
20P (ASTRA)
20_P1 Pink Silk Neck decoration ca, dcII, ka, fk, ea Carminic acid based insect (possible Porphyrophora hamelii) and a tannin source
20_P2 Light pink Silk Neck decoration ca, ea Carminic acid based insect and a tannin source
20_P3 Black Silk Shoulder decoration Prussian bluea, ca Prussian blue and carminic acid based insect
20_P4 Blue–green Silk Shoulder decoration ind, lu Indigoid dye and a luteolin based dye
20_P5 Blue Silk Neck decoration ind Indigoid dye
20_P6 Brown Wool Neck decoration Natural dyed wool
20_P7 Ochre yellow Silk Neck decoration lu, ge, ap, 3-O-methylqu chry, dios Dyer’s broom and sawwort
  1. Major dyes (dyes identified by both UV-Vis and MS detectors) are underlined
  2. aPrussian blue was identified by FTIR/ATR (signal at 2074 cm−1) and confirmed by the presence of Fe in XRF