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Table 3 Results obtained for the studied samples

From: Liquid chromatography as analytical tool for the study of natural and early synthetic dyes in traditional Saxon textiles

Sample

Colour

Fiber

Results

Dyes

Source

DAD

MS

Towel (weaving), inv. 2490, seventeenth century

Biertan

 2490_P1

Blue

Cotton

ind

ind

Indigo-based-dye

Embroidery, inv. 3386, seventeenth century

Transylvania

 3386_P1

Blue

Silk

ind

ind

Indigo-based-dye

Embroided handkerchief, inv. 3383, 1779

Transylvania

 3383_P1

Red

Silk

ca

ca

Carminic acid-based-dye

Embroidery, stove towel, inv. 1958 T, 1802, Hamba, Șura Mare, Sibiu

 1958_P1

Blue

Wool

ind

Indigo-based-dye

 1958_P2

Yellow

Wool

lu

Luteolin-based-dye

 1958_P5

Red

Cotton

al, pu

Madder

Embroidery, towel, inv. 1936, 1832

Cisnădioara

 1936_P1

Red

Wool

ca

ca

Carminic acid-based-dye

 1936_P4

Yellow-Green

Silk

lu

lu

Luteolin-based-dye

 1936_P7

Blue

Wool

ind

ind

Indigo based dye

Embroidery, bed cover, inv. 2075, 1841 [34]

Apold, Sighișoara

 2075_P2

Blue

Wool

ind

Indigo-based-dye

 2075_P3

Dark blue

Wool

ind

Indigo-based-dye

 2075_P5

Red

Wool

al,pu

al,pu, mu

Madder

 2075_P6

Red

Wool

ca

dcII,ca,fk,ka

Mexican cochineal (DC)

Mattress cover (weaving), inv. 2491, nineteent century

Transylvania

 2491_P1

Red

Cotton

al

al, mu

Madder

Embroidery, pillowcover, inv. 2954, nineteenth century

Transylvania

 2954_P1

Blue

Silk

ind

ind

Indigo-based-dye

 2954_P2

Pink-Violet

Silk

ca

Carminic acid-based-dye

 2954_P3

Yellow

Silk

lu

Luteolin-based-dye

Embroidery, handkerchief, inv. 2186 T, not dated

Gârbova Sebeș

 2186_P2

red

Silk

al

Madder or synthetic alizarin

Embroidery, towel, inv. 1861, not dated

Sibiu

 1861_P1

red

Cotton

al

al, mu

Madder

Embroidery, towel, inv. 2940 T

Transylvania

  

 2940_P1

Blue

Silk

ind

ind

Indigo-based-dye

 2940_P3

Red

Silk

al,pu

al, pu

Madder

Embroided head cover, inv. 6050, 1876,

Slimnic

 6050_P1

Green

Silk

 

lu, ap, chry

Weld

 6050_P2

Blue

Silk

Alkali blue (1862)

 6050_P3

Yellow

Silk

 

lu, ap, chry

Weld

 6050_P4

Red

Silk

Crocein orange G (1878) and

red syntehtic dye (not identified, see text)

Embroided head cover, inv. 6081, 1869

Slimnic

 6081_P1

Orange

Silk

Crocein orange G (1878)

 6081_P2

Green

Silk

 

lu, ge, ap, chry

Dyer's broom and weld

 6081_P3

Red

Silk

ca

Carminic acid-based-dye

 6081_P4

Blue

Silk

Blue synthetic dye ( not identified, see text)

 6081_P5

Violet

Silk

Fuchsine (1856)

Embroided head cover, inv. 7515, not dated (early 20-th c. due to the use of rayon, or interventions)

Sura Mica Sibiu

 7515_P1

Red

Rayon

ca

ca

Carminic acid-based-dye

 7515_P2

Violet

Rayon

Fuchsine (1856)

Sheepskin coat, embroidery, inv. 5931P, 1897

Sibiu

 5931_P1

Dark orange

Silk

Orange II (1876)

 5931_P4

Yellow

Silk

Auramine O (1883)

 5931_P6

Orange

Silk

Orange II (1876)

 5931_P7

Violet

Silk

Fuchsine (1856)

 5931_P8

Green

Silk

Quinoline Yellow (1882)

Victoria Blue B (1883)

 5931_P9

Black

Silk

Methyl violet (1861)

Victoria Blue B (1883)

Sheepskin coat, embroidery, inv. 6787P, 1908

Transylvania

 6787_P2

Violet

Silk

Fuchsine (1856)

 6787_P3

Yellow

Silk

Auramin O (1883)

 6787_P4

Red

Silk

Chrysoin (Tropaeolin) (1875)

Orange II (1876)

Rhodamine B (1887)

 6787_P5

Green

Silk

Brilliant green (1879)

 6787_P6

Dark green

Silk

Methyl violet (1861)

Brilliant green (1879)

Sheepskin coat, embroidery, inv. 6984P, 1892

Sibiu

 6984_P1

Red

Silk

Fuchsine (1856)

Eosin A (1871)

Azo Flavine 3R (1880)

 6984_P2

Yellow

Silk

Quinoline yellow (1882)

 6984_P3

Dark green

Silk

Malachite Green (1877)

 6984_P5

Green

Silk

Malachite Green (1877)

and unknown dye (see text)

 6984_P6

Violet

Silk

Methyl violet (1861)

 6984_P7

Yellow

Silk

Yellow dye ( not identified, see text)

 6984_P8

Brown-Black

Wool

Prussin Blue (FTIR/ATR)

and traces unknown yellow dyes (see text)

Sheepskin coat, embroidery, inv. 7230P, 1903

Sibiu, Noul Roman

 7230_P1

Blue

Silk

Victoria Blue B (1883)

 7230_P2

Violet

Silk

Fuchsine (1856)

Methyl violet (1861)

Rhodamin B (1887)

 7230_P3

Red

Silk

Rhodamin B (1887)

 7230_P5

yelow

Silk

Auramine O (1883)

 7230_P6

Red–Orange

Silk

Rhodamine B (1887)

Orange II (1876)

 7230_P7

Yellow

Silk

Quinoline yellow (1881)

 7230_P8

Brown

Silk

Malachite green (1877)

Methyl Violet (1861)/Cristal Violet (1883)

Auramine O (1883)

 7230_P9

Violet-Pink

Silk

Rhodamine B (1887)

Sheepskin coat, embroidery, inv. 9008P, 1900

Sibiu

 9008_P1

Orange

Silk

Orange II (1876)

 9008_P2

Dark red

Silk

Orange II (1876)

 9008_P3

Orange

Silk

Orange II (1876)

 9008_P4

Violet

Silk

Fuchsine (1856)

 9008_P6

Yellow

Silk

LUTEOLIN based dyes

and unknown yellow dyes (see text)

 9008_P8

Brown

Silk

Methyl violet (1861) and unknown dye (see text)

  1. When natural dyes were detected, the biological sources are also presented. Dyes abbreviation, UV–Vis and MS data are given in Table 2