Table 1 List and description of the samples taken from the textiles under investigations and summary of the results.

As1979,Q.101 (Textile 1–T1)

 T1_1

Blue/black base

Sample taken from the front of the upper external part of the tunic

Indigo + tannins

Cotton

 T1_2

Light green embroidery

Sample taken from the embroidery thread of the geometrical decoration

Indigo + tannins

Cotton

 T1_3

Yellow embroidery

Sample taken from the embroidery thread of the geometrical decoration

Gamboge (Garcinia sp.)

Cotton

Al

 T1_4

Red embroidery

Sample taken from the embroidery thread of the geometrical decoration

Morinda citrifolia (red)

Cotton

Al

 T1_5

Red appliquéd band

Sample taken from the edge of the first horizontal band

Morinda citrifolia (red)

Cotton

Al

 T1_6

Off-white thread attaching seed

Sample taken from thread attaching Coix seed

Undyed

Cotton

 T1_7

Blue/black base

Sample taken from the front of the upper internal part of the tunic

As.7765 (Textile 2 – T2)

 T2_1

Blue/black weft

Sample taken from loose dark blue weft visible in the opening of the skirt

Indigo

Cotton

 T2_2

Blue/black band (warp)

Sample taken from warp used for the upper decorated dark blue band

Indigo

Cotton

 T2_3

Grey/blueish band (warp)

Sample taken from warp used for the blueish thin bands

Indigo

Cotton

 T2_4

Green/blue band (warp)

Sample taken from warp used for the greenish thin bands

Indigo + Morinda citrifolia (yellow)

Cotton

 T2_5

Yellow thin band (warp)

Sample taken from warp used for the yellow thin bands

Turmeric ((Curcuma sp.)

Cotton

 T2_6

Yellow thick band (warp)

Sample taken from warp used for the yellow thicker bands

Turmeric (Curcuma sp.)

Cotton

 T2_7

Red band (warp)

Sample taken from warp used for the red bands

Morinda citrifolia (red)

Cotton

 T2_8

Blue/black supplementary weft

Sample taken from supplementary weft used for geometrical decoration

Indigo

Cotton

 T2_9

Light blue supplementary weft

Sample taken from supplementary weft used for geometrical decoration

Indigo + Morinda citrifolia (yellow)

Cotton

 T2_10

Green supplementary weft

Sample taken from supplementary weft used for geometrical decoration

Indigo + Morinda citrifolia (yellow)

Silk

 T2_11

Yellow supplementary weft

Sample taken from supplementary weft used for geometrical decoration

Turmeric (Curcuma sp.)

Cotton

 T2_12

Yellow supplementary weft (fluorescent)

Sample taken from supplementary weft used for geometrical decoration

Turmeric (Curcuma sp.) + Chinese cork tree (Phellodendron chinense)

Silk

 T2_13

Red supplementary weft

Sample taken from supplementary weft used for geometrical decoration

Morinda citrifolia (red)

Cotton

 T2_14

Pink supplementary weft

Sample taken from supplementary weft used for geometrical decoration

Lac dye (Kerria lacca)

Silk

 T2_15

White band (warp)

Sample taken from warp used for the white bands

Undyed

Cotton

 T2_16

Blue/black

Sample taken from warp used for the upper decorated dark blue band (internal part of the skirt)

As, + .6880 (Textile 3–T3)

 T3_1

Blue base

Sample taken from the front of the upper part of the tunic

Indigo

Cotton

 T3_2

Red appliquéd band

Sample taken from the red appliquéd band (first one from top)

Lac dye (Kerria lacca) + cochineal (probably Dactylopius coccus) + young fustic (Cotinus coggygria)

Felted wool

Sn

 T3_3

Red embroidery

Sample taken from the embroidery thread used for the geometrical decoration

Lac dye (Kerria lacca)

Cotton

 T3_4

Green embroidery

Sample taken from the embroidery thread used for the geometrical decoration

Indigo + Chrome yellow/orange

Cotton

 T3_5

Orange embroidery

Sample taken from the embroidery thread used for the geometrical decoration

Lac dye (Kerria lacca) + Chrome yellow/orange

Cotton

 T3_6

White embroidery

Sample taken from the embroidery thread used for the geometrical decoration

Undyed

Cotton

 T3_7

Pink stitch

Sample taken from the stiches used to apply the red bands around the arms

Cochineal (probably Dactylopius coccus)

Cotton

 T3_8

White part of appliquéd band

Sample taken from the undyed area of the red appliquéd band (third one from top)

Undyed

Felted wool

 T3_9

Thread attaching seed

Sample taken from thread attaching Coix seed

Undyed

Cotton

As1919,0717.200 (Textile 4–T4)

 T4_1

Blue ikat

Sample taken from the middle ikat panel (first one from bottom)

Indigo

Cotton

 T4_2

Blue weft

Sample taken from blue weft

Indigo

Cotton

 T4_3

Blue warp (band)

Sample taken from warp used for the blue bands

Indigo

Cotton

 T4_4

Red warp (band)

Sample taken from warp used for the red bands

Morinda citrifolia (red)

Cotton

 T4_5

Green warp (band)

Sample taken from warp used for the green bands

Indigo + Chrome yellow/orange

Cotton

 T4_6

Orange warp (band)

Sample taken from warp used for the orange bands

Morinda citrifolia (red) + Chrome yellow/orange

Cotton

 T4_7

White ikat

Sample taken from undyed part of the ikat panel (first one from bottom)

Undyed

Cotton

As1966,01.481 (Textile 5—T5)

 T5_1

Black base

Sample taken from the base of the tunic (external part)

Synthetic black (diamine black family?) + Chrysamine G (CI 22250, synthesised in 1884)

Cotton

 T5_2

Red appliquéd band

Sample taken from the red band in the lower part of the tunic

Synthetic alizarin (CI 58000, synthesised in 1868) + PR53:1 (CI 15585:1, synthesised in 1902)

Cotton

Al

 T5_3

Red embroidery

Sample taken from the embroidery thread used for the circular geometrical decoration

Synthetic alizarin (CI 58000, synthesised in 1868) + PR53:1 (CI 15585:1, synthesised in 1902)

Cotton

 T5_4

Beige/orange embroidery

Sample taken from the embroidery thread used for the circular geometrical decoration

Synthetic orange (Congo red class?)

Cotton

 T5_5

Yellow embroidery

Sample taken from the embroidery thread used for the circular geometrical decoration

Chrome yellow

(PbCrO4)

Cotton

 T5_6

Green embroidery

Sample taken from the embroidery thread used for the circular geometrical decoration

Indigo + Chrome yellow (PbCrO4)

Cotton

 T5_7

Light green embroidery

Sample taken from the embroidery thread used for the vertical decoration on the left-hand side

Turmeric (Curcuma sp.) + diamond green B (CI 42000, synthesised in 1877)

Cotton

 T5_8

Off-white thread attaching seed

Sample taken from thread attaching Coix seed

Undyed

Cotton

As1901,0318.217 (Textile 6–T6)

 T6_1

Bright pink supplementary weft

Sample taken from supplementary weft used for geometrical decoration

Rhodamine B (CI 45170, synthesised in 1887) + Auramine O (CI 41000, synthesised in 1883)

Felted wool

 T6_2

Dark red supplementary weft

Sample taken from supplementary weft used for geometrical decoration

Orange I (CI 14600, synthesised in 1876)

Felted wool

Cr

 T6_3

Green supplementary weft

Sample taken from supplementary weft used for geometrical decoration

Diamond green G (CI 42040–1879) + Naphthol yellow S (CI 10316–1879)

Felted wool

 T6_4

Dark green supplementary weft

Sample taken from supplementary weft used for geometrical decoration

Nitrobenzene/phenol class?

Felted wool

Cr

 T6_5

Dark blue supplementary weft

Sample taken from supplementary weft used for geometrical decoration

Crystal violet (CI 42555, synthesised in 1883)

Felted wool

 T6_6

Salmon pink pompom

Sample taken from pompom

Rhodamine B (CI 45170, synthesised in 1887) + Auramine O (CI 41000, synthesised in 1883)

Felted wool

 T6_7

Light green pompom

Sample taken from pompom

Nitrobenzene/phenol class?

Felted wool

 T6_8

White base

Sample taken from the base of the textile base fabric

Undyed

Cotton

 T6_9

Off-white fringe

Sample taken from the tip of one of the fringes

Undyed

Cotton