Table 1 Carlyle’s model of accuracy ([59], fig. 2) based on ISO 5725–1 applied to the reconstruction of a seventeenth century knitted silk waistcoat showing how proximity to “trueness” is affected by the materials (X), how they are processed (Y), and levels of craft expertise employed (Z)
Accuracy/trueness | - (relatively less accurate) | ± (between relatively less and relatively more accurate) | + (relatively more accurate) |
|---|---|---|---|
Materials (X) | Artificial | Semi/part natural | Natural |
100% wool (or another non-silk fibre) | Silk/wool blend (or another non-silk fibre blend) | 100% silk | |
Spun and plied | Spun | Reeled | |
Commercially dyed | Artificially hand dyed | Organically dyed | |
Processing (Y) | Industrial | Semi-industrial | Handmade |
Knitting machine | Handknitted | Handknitted | |
Hooks | Circular needle | Multiple double-pointed needles | |
Flat knitting, sewn to shape | Round knitting | Round knitting | |
Labour (Z) | Beginner | Learner | Expert |
Amateur, inexperienced, self-taught knitter | Semi-professional, limited experience, part-qualified knitter | Professional, experienced, qualified knitter |