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Table 1 Characteristics of the examined historical textiles

From: Ottoman palace weavings between different periods: material characterization, comparison and suggestions for conservation

Trial no.

Inv. no.

Period (century)

Historical textile

Who belongs

Fabric type

Materials used in weaving

Colors

Number of sample

The form of the historical textile

1

13/218

16th

Caftan

Murad III (1546–1595)

The main fabric is animal skin, on which there are pieces of silk brocade fabric with metallic threads in different ground colors

Peltry, silk yarn, yellow and white metallic threads

Ground: brown leather

Pattern: blue, dark blue, green, brown, red-brown, shell pink, orange

Lining (headwear): shell pink

3 (1 metallic thread, 2 fibers)

It is a caftan made of leather fleece with long sleeves, a V-neck, a hood, and two laces in the front. There is a lining fabric on the back of the headwear with the post

2

13/1455

16th

Fabric

–

The main fabric is silk brocade, and the lining fabric is the atlas

Silk yarn, yellow metallic thread

Ground: dark red

Pattern: yellow, white, blue

Lining: purple

3 (1 metallic thread, 2 fibers)

The fabric is 120 cm long and 65 cm wide. Fabric edges are not smooth

3

13/584

16th

Caftan

Osman III (1699–1757)

The main fabric is silk brocade, and surrounding the inner edge fabric, and lining fabric are atlas

Silk yarn, yellow metallic thread

Ground: dark red Pattern: yellow, blue, cream

Surrounding the inner edge fabric: light green

Lining: purple

2 (1 metallic thread, 1 fiber)

It has short sleeves, a cut-out front, a round neckline, a waist cutout, and a skirt that widens down from the waistline. There are buttonhole pockets on both sides of the caftan and slits on both sides of the skirt. The front closure features metallic thread laces and cylindrical buttons in a herringbone motif. Its height is 137 cm

4

13/929

Early 17th

Sleeve

Ahmed I (1590–1617)

The main fabric is silk brocade, surrounding the inner edge fabric is silk, and the lining is cotton

Silk yarn, yellow metallic thread, cotton yarn (at lining)

Ground: dark red Pattern: yellow, blue, light green, white

Surrounding the inner edge fabric: light green

Lining: light orange

3 (fibers)

It has a shape that narrows slightly from the shoulder to the wrist. Length: 43 cm, width: 18 cm, wrist width: 15 cm

5

13/1893

17th

Shalwar

Murad IV (1612–1640)

The main fabric is silk brocade, surrounding the inner edge fabric is silk, and the lining is cotton

silk yarn, yellow and White metallic threads, cotton yarn (at lining)

Ground: orange Pattern: yellow, blue, ivory color

Surrounding the inner edge fabric: orange

Lining: raw cotton

4 (2 metallic threads, 2 fibers)

The waist section is quite wide and has a form that narrows at the ankle level. There is a rope lacing at the waist and thin bands of silk fabric sewn from the inside on both sides of the ankle

6

13/816

First half of the nineteenth century

Dress

Saliha Sultan (daughter of Murad II) (1811–1843)

The main fabric is silk brocade, the lining is cotton

Silk yarn, yellow metallic thread, yellow metal wire, cotton yarn (at lining)

Ground: cream Pattern: yellow, light green, light blue, pink, purple

Lining: raw cotton

6 (1 metallic thread, 1 metal strip, 4 fibers)

It has long sleeves, a round neckline, and a flared skirt that extends down from the waistline. There are pockets, and arm slits, and slits on the sides of the skirt. There are 7 buttons and buttonholes on the sleeve slits. All the edges of the dress are surrounded by embroidery made of yellow wire with flower and leaf patterns. The embroidered edges are also surrounded by lace patterned with metallic thread cords. Its height is 70 cm

7

13/1060

Second half of the nineteenth century or the beginning of the twentieth century

Piece of fabric

–

The main fabric is silk brocade, with no lining

Silk yarn, yellow metallic thread

Ground: blue Pattern: yellow

2 (1 metallic thread, 1 fiber)

–