Table 2 Technological analysis and material identification of the textile samples

Y1

A. Couched embroidery chequered pattern (crosses?) made of metal threads on a tabby background fabric;

Background fabric, plain weave 40 × 40/cm²

Background fabric 0.1 ± 0.02 mm ⌀ with no apparent twist, silk(?)

0.26 ± 0.02 mm

Strip-drawn wire, strips 0.27 ± 0.01 mm wide, 5.3 ± 0.2 μm thick, wound around a silk(?) core in a Z direction, with approx. 3 coils/mm

C K 6.71

O K 2.57

Au M 90.72

B. fabric coated with shellac

Plain weave, 50 × 50/cm²

0.16 ± 0.02 mm⌀ with a Z twist and an approx. 20° medium twist angle

N/A

N/A

N/A

C. leather

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

Y2

Slit tapestry of geometric pattern with silk(?) warps and silk(?) and metal thread wefts

Silk: tabby of approx. 60warps x 80wefts/cm²

Silk: 0.05 ± 0.01 mm ⌀ silk(?) warp and 0.1 ± 0.02 mm ⌀ weft of Z twist with an approx. ≤ 10° loose twist angle

Shiny, gold colour: 0.1 ± 0.02 mm

Strip-drawn wire of 1 ± 0.05 μm thick strips wound around a silk(?) core

C K 8.54

N K 4.53

O K 3.26

Au M 83.67

Shiny, rose gold colour: as above

As above

C K 8.54

N K 5.03

O K 2.53

Ag L 8.78

Au M 75.12

Matte: 65 ± 5 μm

0.5 μm thick, as above

C K 14.79

O K 10.09

Au M 75.12

Y3

Couched embroidery of floral motifs

4/1 satin weave (regular ?) 60 floatsx50/cm²; the floats are dyed purple

Silk(?): float thread 0.13 ± 0.02 mm ⌀ with no apparent twist; other set of elements 0.13 ± 0.02 mm ⌀ of Z twist with an approx. ≤ 10° loose twist angle

0.3 ± 0.02 mm

Strip-twisted wire of approx. 0.40 ± 0.05 mm width strip, wound around a silk(?) core in a Z direction, with approx. 3 coils/mm

C K 9.30

N K 4.82

O K 5.32

Au M 80.55

Y4

Dovetail tapestry of geometric pattern with silk(?) warps and silk(?) and metal thread wefts

Similar to Y2

Similar to Y2

Similar to Y2 matte

Gold colour, similar to Y2 matte

C K 9.23

N K 4.57

O K 5.82

Au M 80.38

Rose gold colour, as above

C K 8.37

O K 6.22

Ag L 10.33

Au M 75.08

Y5

Dovetail figurative tapestry with silk(?) warps and silk(?) and metal thread wefts

As above

As above

As above

As above (no rose gold threads detected)

As above (no rose gold threads detected)

Y6

Weft-faced fabric made of plant fibres (the wefts are metal threads)

26 wraps × 42 wefts/cm²

N/A

0.3 ± 0.02 mm

Strip-twisted wire of approx. 0.25 mm width and 4 ± 1 μm thickness, wound around the plant fibre core in S direction at approx. 3 coils/mm

C K 7.06

O K 5.37

Ag L 29.43

Au M 58.15

Y7

A. Couched embroidery of figurative pattern

Tabby

0.2 ± 0.02 mm approx

Similar to Y3

Similar to Y3

C K 8.34

N K 4.62

O K 5.57

Au M 81.47

B. fabric coated with shellac(?)

Similar to Y1.B

Similar to Y1.B

N/A

N/A

N/A

Y8

Braided cordage of 0.5 mm width

N/A

Double Z twisted threads of 0.3 ± 0.1 mm ⌀

N/A

N/A

N/A